The following blog is our tour in a motorhome to France in the Summer of 14. We are a couple with 2 kids aged 19 and 22 (preggers) with the mortgage basically finished. We are 48 and 46, both fairly active and have been motorhoming for 5 years in the same van, Valerie. As you go through the blog you will realise we are both careful with our money after years of struggling. We have tools to assist, 2 maps of France, different sizes, a map of Provence, 2 books, “Wild Swimming in France” and “The Most Beautiful Villages in France” and a satnav purchased from Ebay. We have 2 cameras, one being waterproof, and we have been to France on this type of trip twice before.


Thursday 15^th July came along and I was just about to finish my second 12 hour night shift with 3 hours sleep in between when Paula, the heroine of this tale, arrived at work to pick me up. I was already changed so we left Guildford at 0550 hrs and headed towards Dover in our 2005 625 Carioca, Valerie. We had booked the 1000 hrs ferry but hoped to make the 0800. And we made good speed. We got there at 0740 thinking we had made it. There was no great queue of the idiots of the who had bought the wrong tickets so we were bound to get in. “Could you go over to the naughty boys ticket bureau as you have put the wrong height in” was the response I got from the DFDS lady. So 42 pounds later for 40 cms of height and I could board, the 1000 hrs ferry. I got an hours kip and another hour on the ferry. At least on this occasion the only school trip was well behaved 15 year old girls who didn’t have the ability to scream every 5 seconds. 2^nd off the ferry and we set our newly purchased Chinese Lorry satnav and set off to get out of the port. 2 minutes later we turned round to get out the right way. We went to Hoondschotte about 20 minutes from Dunkirk and et up with the parents in law for tea and cakes and I got another hour in whilst Paula went off to get some fresh air. We then made our towards Belgium (after another misdirection from the satnav) We went past Lille on free motorways and it was apparent straightaway when we entered Belgium. The roads were awful. Far worst than British roads and nowhere near the standards of the French. Little miss satnav appeared to be behaving as our training of her appeared to be working. Change the miles on the satnav to kilometres says Paula. You may have to wait for me to tell you if we achieve that. I opened up the last text from the UK to find out I left my tablet at work. I had downloaded the Dutch app where I could view aires offline. Really need to download that as soon as I get some weefee. It started to get dark as we neared Luxembourg and thought we really ought to put on the light deflectors that we bought last year. We looked at the instructions last year and like many others were bamboozled. Whacked them on with an element of guesswork, we put the bit that said top at the top and nobody flashed us so we carried on til we were getting tired. Paula said she forgot the spare keys at this stage.
 Dudelange

 was noted as a free stopover in Luxembourg and the satnav took us right there including working out how to go past a motorway diversion. The place was full, so having already had 2 previous French excursions I managed to park in there a la our French cousins who park anywhere. However I managed to upset this rather unsightly Dutch old dear and moved next door to an empty car park all by ourselves. 2 glasses of white homebrew and 8 hours solid sleep we made the decision that Luxembourg town would be a stop on the way back as it was 20 minutes by train from Dudelange train station which was 100 yards from us. We set the mistress of the satnav for Metz and set off in search of diesel in Luxembourg. The exchange rate was 1.20 euros to the pound and we got the diesel at 1.19. Less than a pound a litre for the first time since 1994 ! We took a detour in Dudelange owing to a huge queue and the mistress got us on to the motorway in the right direction. Motorway travel (free motorway) was the order of the day. First stopping point was a motorway aire and we saw a couple of right bits of totty in tight jeans hitch hiking towards Nancy. You should have seen the lorry drivers running back to their lorries in order to pick them up. A quick pit stop at Lidls in Pompey for ice cream and iced tea then a stop at Les Vogues for a rest and fill up with free water. It was a beautiful park with loads of parking and it took ages after to find the aire which was pretty chocker and loads of fishing equipment as it was next to the river. We got our water and ran. A decision was made that Arc et Sanons 

would be our night time stop. The mistress took us past Besancon, where le tour had left that morning. We got there and vans had filled up the allotted spaces but our English attitude to parking in the right place has been left behind so we parked under a tree next the Marie which was quite an imposing building almost chateau like. Nobody seems to care and there was plenty of parking elsewhere within the town and striking distance of the aire. A walk to the shops about 200 yards away and some pork chops cut up for us from the butcher. Also purchased was a banana and kiwi jam. We liked the sound of that one in our croissants. A walk down to the river at night with a nice weir but no river walk and then back for a couple of homebrew wines with frozen grapes behaving like ice cubes. Sleep was next on the agenda and it had been 29 c during the day and neither of us wanted a sleeping bag. Note to self to buy a cotton sheet. The aire is right next to a fire station and they obviously had cleaning duties in the morning which required the use of a generator. The fact it woke up zee English wouldn’t have come into their decision making, I’m sure. Valerie got a bit temperamental starting this morning. Possible battery problem, but she was up and running so we followed le tour, only 24 hours behind. The mistress was given a day off as we only had to go about 20 miles which looked easy enough. As the satnav was Chinese and it appeared that she wanted to take us in different directions all the time she has been renamed from the mistress to Miss Wong Wei. Both of us decided it couldn’t be our fault. We are in possession of the aires book for France, a wild swimming in France book, a beautiful villages in France book and a European aires book. This would be how we are planning our holiday with 2 maps and a satnav. Lac Naval was going to be our first swim. Parked just outside the campsite then walk through it. It was fine walking through even though you might think it’s wrong and the swim was worth it in crystal waters with jumping points and quite picturesque. Cascades Du Herrison was high on our agenda of places to visit and we decided today was the day. We got there about 1330 hrs and off we trekked, with me just carrying a shirt and a pair of shorts that I could swim in. Iced water and the waterproof camera and a pair of sandals that I could swim in. We started at the top of the cascades and walked downwards. (this works out to be the better way as its free)  There are a series of huge waterfalls each of them stunning and numerous small weirs. You can walk behind the waterfalls and some of them you can swim in and took loads of photos.

We ended up walking about 10kms on rough paths and started taking the mick out of all the people who had walking sticks but changed our mind as they are quite useful here with slippy ground. OAPs were slipping over in their deck shoes and one lady had the most horrendous heels which were highly inappropriate. We got back to the start and there were some shops one of which sold lovely wooden products but a bit steep for us until we found a wooden bookmark which contained a bee. Most apt for me as a beekeeper so it went straight into the James Patterson. When we got back we noticed the aires book was now disintegrating at the binding as we left it on the dash in 31.5 C and the glue just melted. Paula came up with the idea of buying a hole punch and A4 lever folder for it. Valerie got temperamental again and the bonnet had to rise and wiggled a few wires and she came round to our way of thinking. Clairveaux les lacs was our chosen destination and all the spaces were taken as we followed another motorhome into it. He went round and came out, we went in and parked with our newly found French attitude of there is a space that isn’t marked so that must be for us ! Everyone looked at our audacity as I just parked and got the seats out and starting cooking on the cadac outside. There was almost an air of “Good parking spot” nods in our direction from the French. A walk round town and down to the lake which was beautiful with a sandy beach before the horsemeat for me and Paula on the local sausages before a couple of Leffe Blondes to wash it all down. The temperature had made us realise that we need lighter clothing still. Shorts and a t shirt is still too much ! The most noticeable thing about this aire was the amount of flies. Loads of them. We were parked within 5 yards of the bin but even so there were shed loads. In terms of wildlife we have only seen bats and lizards so far that are out of the ordinary. Woke in the morning and the supermarket was next door so the obligatory baguette was purchased with ham and Dijon mayonnaise. The plan was to go to Lac Vouglans for the day and stay at an aire after swimming at the end of the gorge but Valerie was temperamental again so halfway towards our destination we thought we had better get her seen to. We popped into Oyannax but there was no Fiat garage and no Anglaisey was spoken here at all. My 1982 French O level grade C was tested and we found out there was a Fiat garage in Bourg En Bresse about 30 miles away so we got the address and set Miss Wong Wei. We noticed a chemist in the shade which told us it was 36C. We got to the garage at 1300 hrs but obviously it was closed at they have their siesta between 1200 and 1430. We found a park and had lunch and got back to which the guy said he couldn’t fix it as it wouldn’t go into his garage because of height. We made our way out of town and a Peugeot dealer told us there was a garage in Chambery so we set off there. We stopped at supermarket just to walk through their freezer department then Paula said that she also forgot the Apisyl for stings. Didn’t mind too much as would buy more of it anyway. Carried on towards Chambery and found an office du tourisme where she told us the particular garage we were headed for was open on Saturdays and about a plan d’eau nearby for a swim. In we went for a swim and it was lovely and well worthy of a second dip. French breast was noted on the beach unfortunately she was well beyond 70 years of age. Loads of space at the aire at Belley

and we watched the hot air balloon go up and down before going into town for a beer and weefee with cashews and banana chips and watching the old American motors going up and down in competition with the Ferraris. Sat outside without a shirt til gone 10. The mosquito burner is doing its job in the van and a relaxing night was had before Chambery for Vanessa in the morning. The aftermath of the cascades du herrison walk has caught up with both of us. Our calves are painful. We went to put some Ibulieve on it but we made the mistake of leaving it in the cupboard as you do. Well it exploded in there because of the heat. All creams have now been put into the fridge. The Deep Heat survived though and that went on but only after the Apisyl for a couple of bites on the legs. The sleeping bag is now just far too heavy to sleep in and in dire need of a cotton sheet. 0800 hrs and Chambery Fiat garage it is. Miss Wong Wei gets us close but no cigar for her this time and we get local instructions. Eventually find the garage to get told that it is open but not for mechanics, come back Monday.  We leave Chambery and find an aire about 30 miles away which is free in Seysell

on the Rhone river. Back up the road and the choice of going through the tunnel has gone as we have no time to worry about so up le col du chat near grand Colombier and breath taking views of lac Bourget with snow covered alps in the background slowed our journey down again. We dropped down the other side and followed a river which was turquoise and had a picnic stop with just one French family near Chanaz. It was so good we turned round having missed it on the initial passing. Pistachio ham with French sticks. Not recommended but still pleasant. Rented motorboats going up and down the river but it was relatively warm so the trunks came on to the dismay of the wife and in I pop. Beautiful little dip. Drying off in the sun and the fish that had been jumping right out of the water were now in danger from an osprey which swooped down within 30 yards but failed and went off. Continuing to our destination we found the free water and dumping ground and parked up. Paula put the screens on and I go for a walk coming back after a minute saying we arent stopping here. We drive off to Paula’s dismay with no explanation from me and go 100 yards round the corner where we park adjacent to la Rhone with a swimming lake the other side.....bliss. A swim in the lake, walk to the shops, watch a wedding and back with scrumptious cakes and rose wine with frozen grapes. Dinner was chicken breast with fresh carrots peppers onions and celery with noodles cooked in the paella dish of the cadac seasoned with lemon honey and soya sauce. First time we have used the paella dish and it was well worth buying, will be cooking on it more. Another late swim was had in the lake and then a walk to the end of the promenade where a transit was running up the road adjacent to the lake with a bit of rope hanging out of the back and kids wakeboarding along the lake and jumping the reeds that were in the way. 0840 and we are met by overcast clouds! Walked into town about 1000 hrs as there was a fete of some description with 2000 people walking off somewhere and back which had something to do with the Rhone hydroelectricity. We got our pain from the local boulangerie and came back for an early lunch. Swimming cozzie on ready for a midday dip whilst reading Patterson and it started to rain. Ideal time at 26c to wash the van I thought. So the French the Italians and the Dutch were inside their vans looking at zee mad Englishman out in a storm washing his van in his swimming trunks. It blew over and we went back to town for the local produce fair at 1400. Owing to the inclement weather raincoats were worn just in case. I told her not to pack them as it wouldn’t rain in France in the summer. The local winery was there but selling their wares by the bottle for a fiver. I want 5 litres for a tenner so waiting to hit a local cave for that. La Villagoise in a plastic bottle will do until then. They were selling honey and I noticed that they sold beeswax candles with the honey in the same package. Excellent marketing idea for when I get back. Cheese was bought. I don’t like cheese unless it is melted so Paula chose the cheese to go on our chicken which would be wrapped in bacon and cooked on our new paella dish roasting oven. Back we came and I noticed this 3 year old with a 10 foot fishing rod on one of the jetties and thought that’s for me. I have always been useless at fishing but I try. So I get my 3 foot kayak rod out with some worms I bought in April when in the Pyrenees and went to the other jetty so as not to make it a challenge against the post nappied boy. They left their jetty and it started to rain then it began pouring down then it continued with wind then we noticed the Rhone had white horses on it and the trees were bending then came the thunder and lightning. During all this time the wife stayed to take the photo whilst I had a cigar at the end of the jetty in my mac and shorts and even the ducks ignored the bread so no hope of any fish. I swear I could hear someone whistling that old Hamlet cigar advert. The Dutch French and Italians now had confirmation that zee Englishman was mad. Back to the van and tried watching series 2 of 24 only to find the carbooter who sold it to me neglected to mention episodes 1-4 were missing. Episode 5 goes on and the rain was so hard we couldn’t hear it. Read the book I thought, so I did then promptly had my siesta to be told my snoring was drowning out the rain. Dinner arrived and I was looking forward to my chicken
Wrapped bacon with local cheese until we found the chicken had gone off. I thought I would get some brownie points by immediately offering to take her out for a meal (walking a couple of miles in the rain) but she declined. Eggs and bacon with salad it was then. A night with the books listening to the rain was accompanied by me waking up at 0555hrs to make a move to Chambery where the fiat garage opened at 0800hrs. It was chucking it down, torrential rain had obviously been going on all night. Back through the tunnel and the views of lac Bourget

were non-existent. But we got to the fiat garage and a man took one look at the battery and said a ha and got a spanner and took the thing apart then put it back together the right way with an extra couple of nuts. I don’t know what idiot put that battery on ! Anyway he charged us 12 euros and we left him enough for 5 litres of wine. Whilst in the garage waiting we fully took advantage of the weefee. Who had Newcastle signed and what was the weather forecast were our highest priorities. The weather was abysmal for 2 days in Grenoble but goods today for Cannes. Head south was the choice we made. Alpe d'huez would have to wait. The road down to Sisteron

was surprisingly good for non peage. Very difficult to get over 50mph in the van but all the bends were curves and we let the patient people behind us go every once in a while. We pulled over at Laragne Montaglin. Huge car park with no problem parking and another car park had been overtaken next door by caravans. It appeared that they were being pulled by transits. We weren’t going to stop there but we wouldn’t have done as there was very little in the town and the river was dried up (even after the rain). Sisteron was calling and we could see the citadel from miles away and knew the aire was underneath it. We took the last spot at 1500 hrs, walked round the town got a map from tourist office went up to the viewpoint and could see the warm front closing in on us. Still very windy the 6 euro entry fee into an old ruin is not our cup of tea and I will check it out on wiki upon our return. As we walked round we saw an official aire with all the facilities next to the train station. There were also motorhomes parked up behind the citadel beyond the cemetery and outside of town there were more in an out of town intermarche or similar. Sisteron is the motorhome capital of this holiday. On a par with Souillac in the Dordogne last year. To date we have yet to locate any Anglaisies since I had to pay extra to DFDS (or pay the right amount!) The holiday trots made their first appearance today but one Imodium has sorted that problem. Gorges du Verdon in the morning hopefully with a lit up citadel tonight for photos. Photos were obtained and facebook messages with both daughters at a bar with weefee. I had to ask if they had weefee and the code and the man wanted me to buy a hoegaarden to ensure I was a customer. 2 leffe blondes I said. No hoegaarden he said. But I want Leffe Blonde, to which he replied Hoegaarden. Listen mate I want fucking leffe blondes. The wife intervened to tell me the code for the internet was “hoegaarden”.....oops. So I got the code and we drank the leffe blondes. We walked round a bit more and saw an old dear create a parking space to the anger of locals by just nudging a small car back a couple of feet with her big merc! We got up had cup of tea and breakfast and it looked simple enough so miss wong wei was given the morning off. First road I got onto was wrong so we pulled over and I managed to change the voice and move her to kilometres. First stop was the obligatory toilet dump followed by, at last, a cave that was open. 5 litres of top quality rose for 10 euros. We saw a sign for E Leclerc at Manosque and we haven’t made it to one this holiday so we were going there til we saw a huge Auchan. Our only previous experience of Auchan was at Calais and we were in a hurry so we went in. Dutifully impressed with 2 good blouses for 3 euros each we bought the sheets we are going to need tonight and 2 tuna big steaks for 8 euros. We may have got carried away with our double skillet and paella dish for the cadac but we bought a small joint of boneless pork for 3.90. I fancy a roast. The diesel was 1.26 which is about 1.04 in sterling so I filled up for our venture into the gorges du verdon. We were now set. Nothing could stop us heading to lac ste Croix. Dammit we passed through Greoux les Bains and that looked top notch with an aire.....is 4 weeks enough? ?...so we kept going and although the road was lovely after about 8 km out of town there were no Fantastic picnic spots and I was getting hungry. A stop in Reiz for some lunch and we carried on to ste Croix du Verdon

via some overpowering lavender fields. Stopped for some photos and found the aire. This was extremely touristy. Pedalos were 8 euro for half an hour. Had a couple of swims and my second sight of breast was not good.. I didnt fancy the night there nor did paula so I knew of this beach which I thought was out of the way at Baudeun. Went past the beach and into the village but no motorhome parking otherwise it looked superb with local market ongoing. Found a place in the corner with a cove and a couple more swims there. Onto Les Salles where we were looking for a nights stop about 4ish. Didn’t like the look of the aire again, too far from town and probably a private thing so the decision was made to go to Moustiers ste Marie.

Good decision. One of the most beautiful villages in France with a walk up the hill from the aire which is an 8.50 pay by card aire. Market day with local produce so lavender honey and another local honey were purchased and 2 lavender bags which are supposed to keep the mozzies away. One for the toilet and one for the van. A Guinness was purchased earlier and has been in the fridge but is currently open at the time of writing. The sun is still beating down and the tuna is about to be sacrificed before we turn our attention to the lights going on in the town for photos. I have deliberately missed out reversing into a tree at Les Salles And causing the gaffa tape to come out later on the bumper. I feel no names ought to be mentioned at this stage just in case Paula has a bigger accident than mine! Across the aire from us is an Anglaisey van. First one we have seen since near Dunkirk. As yet no contact has been made. Boy do I need shave..... shave achieved, photos failed of the night time shots and the anglaisies didn’t come out of their van. I got up about 0750 and looked at the barrier, as we hadn’t paid like everyone else. The barrier was up. Good news we had got a free night. Then I saw a van go off and thought they were mad setting off that early but 2 minutes later the local plod in the form of a municipal policeman came in with a list of debtors which included us and the other 25 vans on site. 8.50 euros lighter I made him a cup of tea which Paula wasn’t impressed with but hey ho. Brekkie was yoghurt on cereal and we made our way back to Lac ste Croix for 0930 where it was pedalo time

up the gorge. 15 euro for a 4 seater pedalo is excellent value if there are 4 of you. Up the gorge and back again just in time for no fine and then a dip in le lac. Up the southern side of the gorge on the yellow road and numerous stops for photos. The vans fan came on as it was hot at this stage. Unbelievable views. Maybe managed 30kph moving average pace as had to keep letting cars go past. Then we met a tunnel. You could just see the other end at the start. Nobody there so through we go with our lights on til a frog without brains joins us from the opposite direction. Couldnt he read the 4m width sign and see we are a motorhome? I refused to reverse with a car up my jacksy and he decided there was enough space. His wife wasn’t impressed with both his wing mirrors going in. So we got through and nobody else argued with zee single minded Englishman. We dropped down to another parking spot for even more photos and no word of a lie a great big bloody 53 seater coach was going up. Thankfully it passed us at a stopping point. Tin of tuna salad for lunch courtesy of a super u and then we set miss wong wei to locate a swimming point in the middle of nowhere. I m here she said. Where’s all the parked cars we thought. This was supposed to be a nice spot. Shall we trust her? So I double checked the coordinates went for a walk finding a path that could have been the path and go for it. It could have been the way to a farm but after about 800 metres we could hear children’s voices. They didn’t appear to sound in trouble so we continued and found this little gorge. Up the river 700 metres it said. The river was basically dry so we went back to the bridge and set up for some sunbathing. I decided to go downstream and found a fantastic clue.

It was only waist deep but great fun. Went about 400 yards down this clue (a narrow gorge covered or half covered overhead through which the river runs, normally limestone rock) and then had to climb out as I didn’t check my exit before entering. Back to get Paula and the waterproof camera and down we go taking photos and running the battery dry. We could see rainclouds ahead now so back to the van to work out where to stay. Castellane seemed good but just up the road was st Andre sur Alpes.

One of them was free so st Andre it was. A few more photostops en route and we arrived and walked round the town but nothing really there so retired for dinner. As I bought her a double skillet which she said could cook a roast I demanded roast pork, roast potatoes and honey roasted veg. It was superb. Still not spoken to an Englishman but tomorrow we have to backtrack a bit and head for the sun again at Sallins la Cascade. So it was raining the next morning when we woke but we were off to the south and there was a hint of blue sky that way. Brekkie and a trip to la boulangerie and off towards la Haute Jambon where there was a clue, the photos looked brilliant. We travelled for half an hour and found it but our directions from the "wild swimming in France" book weren’t great. So we trotted off in the wrong direction and 4 miles later we actually found the place. The detour saw us scare the living daylights out of some huge bird of prey as much as it did to us as it flew off about 4 yards in front of us. It was big and brown and by a little stream so your guess is as bad as ours. We saw loads of organised groups coming back all looking dejected having paid their 35 euros each. We decided to start at the bottom and work our way up then we couldn’t get stuck. Got to the bottom and the water was horribly muddy brown and bloody freezing. Looked inside and I could go about 10 yards before needing ropes and a wetsuit. Bollox 3 miles back in the middle of the day and only about 300 ml of water each. We got back having assisted a French lady who did what I allegedly did, only to her front bumper. Got it back into place for her and then it was ham and baguettes time and well deserved too with lashings of ice tea which is a godsend out here. Chateaudouble was our next port of call and we were both desperate for a dip. I saw the sign and took it but it was the wrong road. Miss wong wei wasnt making any sense as we were a mile from the place but it was going to take us 20 minutes. Anyway this detour mas a mare. No turning round places, single traffic, loads of turns up mountains and in the end an hour later we were 3 miles from where we left the main road. We ll still go there for a dip then. Bugger, the road was closed, maybe miss wong wei knew! All our eggs into one basket and crying out for water round our bodies we set off without wong wei to Sillans la Cascade.

We found the aire to stay at for the night straightaway and got our swimmers on and walked off to the nearest map. We were joined by the Dutch who had been here15 years before. This map doesn’t make sense he said and the cascade is down there, pointing in the other direction. I took a photo of the map having studied it furiously and immediately headed off in the wrong direction. We weren’t the only ones. Everybody was wondering about aimlessly and just heading in the direction of those who looked shattered and had wet hair. Well we found it after walking like mountain goats down this slippery path. I got in. It was refreshingly cold. Really quite cold. 5 minutes passed for photos from the side by Paula and she got in for 2 minutes and getting out saying that refreshing ought to be replaced fucking. I stayed in another 15 mins swimming in all the pools then we went up to the viewpoint of the falls. It was described as looking like Costa Rica. They weren’t wrong. A quick French conversation encouraging the natives to walk down and we trundled back through the olive trees and got stuck into chocolate and mint ice cream. Melons with spicy prawn salad followed by the vino we bought at la cave a couple of days ago. It has been syphoned through un entennoir we bought last year and put in to the empty bottle of la Villagoise and then placed into the fridge with frozen grapes in the freezer. Very smooth to taste and one can see more of it being drunk. 26872 steps for the day should see the skipper of the steps team happy and a 100 metre swim to boot. Hopefully tomorrow more rest by the riverside and book reading with tanning and less driving. So the next morning we were driving to where we had already come from. First stop was a lovely little village called Cotignac where we parked up and walked through the town taking photos. Numerous bars and cafes and a small market. Just really pretty. Now to find our swimming point for the day. First was a shopping trip into the next town en route and we walked around that, again quaint with a medieval city with lookout towers from the 12 th century. Couldnt find a decent intermarche or similar. We were told it was behind the garage. So 3km down the road was our swimming point. Well it wasnt there. Everything else was apart from the path. Not to worry another 4km down the road was the next one. Instructions werent read on this one very well so we moved onto the next one. Set the sat nav this time instructions were to look out for an unnamed road between 2 villages which were 11 km apart and there were 2 roads between them. Sat nav set and she took us up one road and down the other. I think it was at this point I realised the gps points that we were putting in were to the actual stream gps points and miss wong wei just took us around in circles around this point. I lost my rag now. Sick of driving and wanting to have a day of rest. Our next possible stop was Chateaudoble where we had failed 2 days earlier. We had to go through Draguinan so diesel and shopping were a must. Stopped outside at an intermarche looking at the map then headed in only to find we were 2 minutes too late as it was closing at 12 for lunch. Through Draguinan with a lack of signs, there was only one for Chateaudouble which said follow Digne and Grasse. Well this took us on a big detour with loads of signs for lidls but no actual shops. Outstanding. So we get to Chateaudouble again and set her whilst checking the map and she wants to take us 11km in a circle. The other road was blocked because of flooding a couple of years ago so maybe the river was down this road and we couldnt get to it. Really really frustrated now. Lunch was at Montferrat next to a beautiful footy pitch in a village. Then looking ahead at where we were going the Pointe Sublime looked favourite.

We couldn’t miss it as I had already seen signs for it. 2 swimming points down there. So bloody narrow roads with huge vertical drops that unfortunately you could see with blind bends next cut out mountains and tunnels and it must have taken 20 mins to do that 4km. Down to the car park which wasn’t a car park so we can turn round and park on the side of the road halfway up the mountain. Walk back in my swimmers and towel only to have to turn after one walk for a call of nature and put the towel down as well as there was no swimming here at all. So we walked through these tunnels alongside le verdon and they were very cooling with a wet floor and ankle deep puddles. Well we had rock climbing Jesus sandals with no sox so we were fine. Others had brand new Nike airs with sox and ladies were not amused. The tunnels were pitch black but some knew this and had head torches others had mobile phones, we had neither so followed those that did until there was no one with a light. Hand against tunnel wall one step at a time and sort of hope. We got through took the photos and returned seeing the white water rafting going on. Back on the road to Castellane and into The office de tourisme to check out prices for rafting and 35 euros for 90 minutes each wasn’t high on the agenda. Asked for the code for the internet to be met with a Nottinghamshire accent. Our first English primary language speaker since we got here. Found the casino shop and the diesel was 1.32 not being used to that high a price I was loathed to fill up but heading across gorges and clues and canyons we needed to. Then I worked out if I took 20% off that it was only about £1.06 a litre. So we were now heading for 2 aires at Caille and Thorenc. It would leave us with a 20 mile narrow white road on the map from either aire to where we needed to be. We would more or less pass the place st Auban so Paula agreed to staying out in the wild somewhere. The road was a wide white one so got there relatively quickly. Into the town and it was a ghost town 1200 metres high and pissing it down. We walked about. Decided the car park wasn’t good then headed for the clue where we saw another motorhome wild camping. Park opposite them looks good right at the top of the clues. So we stopped there eating sausage bacon and chips during the thunderstorm with only 3 seconds between the lightening and the thunder all night. Woke up this morning and the sun appears to be out. The swimming book doesn’t look like its helping today as there is definitely no swimming in this clue. Canyoning yes but swimming no. So we got up after a night of thunderstorms and the sun was just beginning to poke through the Clouds. Nobody had moaned about where we had slept and we set off relatively early through the canyon with the clue beneath. We didn’t bother to stop at the bottom as the photo was not as nice as the others where we were heading. From clue st Auban we went along a minor white road towards clue d'Aiglun but the road had little red dashes on it and the book said dangerous. Considering some of the roads we had been on that no mention was made of anything and there was a height barrier exactly the same as our van we gave it a miss as 4 km later the clue de Pierrefeu was waiting. We couldn’t miss this as the stopping point was next to the fire station. There was nothing up here not even a boulangerie so we felt confident. On the way we saw another great stopping point

where the road met the Esteron river and there were 10 cars parked. They were selling fruit n veg by the road. They looked like a hippy commune so we pulled over and saw they had some bread so bought a baguette and then a pound of plums. 1.50 she said. I thought I was committing a robbery. We popped down to the river but no swimming point so made it Pierrefeu. No fire station! We did however see 2 signs that pointed towards the Esteron.

We parked up on the side of the road and took the 20 minute trek down the mountain on the easy to follow path. Walked up the river on the opposite bank for 5 minutes and found bliss. Nobody else about at all anywhere. Midday required suntan being applied and both of us had a couple of dips. Lunch was had down there with the aforementioned stolen baguette. Off up the hill where we notice the garage and next to it is an access point for firemen or a station if you use the word in another context. Pont de Cerisse was another alleged 4km down the road some travelled 8km to find a sign and stopped at the top as we couldn’t see a way to turn Valerie round. Down the path for 25 minutes to see the entrance to the clues under an ancient bridge. Walked up river about half a mile and floated down in the currents hitting the occasional boulder but I went feet first so my ankles took a couple of knocks. We needed to re look at where we staying tonight and went back to the van. Not many aires around here at all. Nearest one was Puget Theniers at 3.50 euros or there was one next to Nice on the coast at st Laurent du Var (like we could get in there) which was free. Puget it was. Set mis wong wei and she took us directly there after a couple of mishaps with finding gps signal. We needed a toilet drop off. It was getting close with the level in the toilet. Looks like a nice spot by the river var. Oh no. The circus is in town and taken the aire over. Its closed. So we just blasé over without a care in the world and empty the toilet cassette in front of the clowns and bugger off. We look for the next aire and its only 10 k away so head towards it but have to go through Entrevaux. We spot the citadel up high in the mountain from along the valley. And get into the town and see parking on the left. We ll have a walk round here and then notice bus bays with a couple of motorhomes in so that was us for the night. Before we got to Entrevaux we used this major road out of Nice D6102 and we met a thunderstorm. It was horrendous. Parts of the road were dual carriageway. I was doing 30mph I was being overtaken by 4x4 cars doing at least 45mph there were puddles all over the place. At one point I think I was supposed to stop but I couldn’t see the white lines in the road and just joined the traffic. It was a tad concerning til the road got dry as quickly as it had got wet. Valerie saw 65mph for the first time in a long time. Hell she saw 5th gear for the first in a long time as well. So Entrevaux.

Look at the pictures. I can’t describe it well enough. We were next to the railway station and you walk over it. I took a look at it and decided from 6 months of experience of working on the railway in 1983 that it was a narrow gauge. Paula disagreed.  I saw a sign for a vapour train and that was that. Later that night a train went past. Obviously diesel. Looked at it. Appeared a bit weird but a normal train, not a touristy steam train. Apology to Paula offered. Woke in the morning to the sound of diesel again changing gears. Took a look and it was basically a coach which had been stuck on the lines. Very weird. Thinking about having a look at the costs of going into Nice in a minute on the train. We enjoyed a beer under the citadel with weefee to the kids. A little disappointed they didn’t light the citadel up at night. We woke to church bells and diesel trains. Looked at all their sleepers and wondered how many I could fit in the van, they were all piled up next to us. Into the citadel to try to buy our baguette from there but couldn’t we went up to see the top but you needed a token that cost 3 euros to go through the 1970s football turnstile. So we got a baguette and cake from the boulangerie opposite and had a lazy morning reading before going round the corner to Brec where there is a campsite with a swimming lake. Boy was it hot. Had to have 2 dips in half an hour. Water was a little on the cold side but it was hot so I thought it refreshing, Paula said cold. We then made a joint decision that owing to only 2 possible aires st Laurent and Sospel we would not do the Monaco/Nice bit and start heading home very slowly. We went off to the gorges de Dalius and parked at Roua aire as instructed but again the instructions were awful. We went up the wrong road from the aire looking for a barrier and sign then the other road, no joy, it was still baking hot so we drove up the road 2km rather than the 150m they said and saw the sign but it was far too hot to walk 2k before the 2k uphill walk so we went off through the mountains to Colmar.

Got there and the first thing noticed was the alpine style wooden houses which we hadn’t seen yet. Into the aire which said parking for 5 in one book and parking for 10 in another. There were signs up saying no motorhomes past this point but that was where 8 vans had parked and it was only 1600 hrs. We parked up there then read a sign that I translated into once you had used the font bleu (water filler and emptier) go over the bridge. So we did and had a walk round the town into the tourist office where I didn’t need a code for the weefee so could come back tonight and sit outside and talk to the kids. Into the beautiful citadel walking round we found a honey shop with all ancillary bee products. Loads of propolis products. But they had a cuddly bee which was to be our mascot for Valerie. We were told her name was Maya and she was the star of a children’s film in France. Up to the cascade. I had feeling the water would be cold so walked up there in shorts and took the photos. It was a big waterfall

with viewing area only for 8. Nobody else up there with us so no hassle. Walked back down and went ankle deep into the water and it was freezing. I mean bloody cold. 20 seconds and my feet were going numb. Paula put her feet in and needed a wee instantly. Back for paprika chicken on the picnic tables having now joined the multitude of vans, about 25, and parked across the bays as there was so much space. It seemed to annoy everyone but they were all illegally parked. It got dark quickly because of the tall mountains hiding the dipping sun but still warm out of the wind so we went down to the tourist  office to weefee it up. No connection, not just us a Frenchy failed dismally as well. So we took our posh wine rucksack purchased at the car boot for a pound and sat like hobos on the park bench drinking our posh vino from plastic glasses taking photos of the lit up citadel and working out there was a night mode on the camera and there was a flash as well. No wonder the previous night time photos didn’t work. Back for a read and off to bed. Got cold through the night though. Got to keep remembering we are in the valley but still about 2000 feet high. There was no real supermarket in town and we had decided to go over the col d'Allos and Allos was in the way so bound to be something there. We only needed breakfast stuff. The map indicated a yellow road which was very thin and 3.5 tonne limit and 7 metre length. One of the other maps had a red line along it, not like the dashed red line a couple of days ago but enough to justify a question at the tourist information. I m also not positive about our weight when we have diesel full and 200 litres of water but there were at least 5 other vans of similar or bigger size than us going up there. Not sure of what to expect when we set off and I wasn’t that impressed as we went towards Allos. It was lovely scenery but nothing we hadn’t really seen before. A gendarme followed us and we let him go and got a beep and we went through Allos. In there was one of those dry luges that you sit on and come down the mountain. We will find one of those as when we saw it we had passed the stopping points and nobody was on it so not sure if it was open. Then came the narrowing of the road and the climb. Now I can see what the mapmakers were on about. The fan had to go on to stop overheating and our 8 km climb began, hairpins galore,

cars motorbikes pushbikes coming towards us. Everybody was respectful though. It was usually everybody else who reversed because of our size but we had one hairy bit where I was on the dropside of the mountain with my wheels on the tarmac and there was an extra 6 inches of loose grit that the guy wanted me to go on to as he didn’t want to go down the foot deep ditch on his side. We sorted it out though, he got to reverse a bit I pretended I did and he got past. Then we saw this brown furry animal run in front of us, well I did, got the camera as I leant out of the window. Initial thought was it was a beaver, a young one as it wasn’t fat and had no rudder tail. Then an otter but who knows. But he poked his head out and I got 3 good shots of his head (with a camera not a shotgun) so retrospective identification on facebook at a later date.

Round the next hairpin there was a car park. We made it. 2250 metres. Which if I multiply by 3 and add 10% I get nearly 7,500 feet. So then we walked up to the top and got some photos and carried on down in 2nd and 3rd gear with no revs and just touching the brake. Paula looking ahead round the bends for motorhomes as we thankfully didn’t meet one going up. If we did meet one it could be fun. The drop down to Barcelonette

was better photo time as you could see the across the valley and how far down you were looking. Then across this bridge and I made the mistake of looking over and there was literally nothing for I don’t know how many hundreds of feet. It was most disconcerting. Breathe Jonathon breathe, then we met our motorhome coming in the other direction. They had spotted us and beckoned us through at their stopping point. 100 yards further and the road opened up and we had completed the col. Into Barcelonette and found the aire quite easily. There are 2 one of which is free. Anyway the free one is well signposted and behind the sports stadium. It’s not good though. Mud and soft ground for parking. We took the last bit of what could be described as hard ground away from the bog. It was sunny so I wasn’t worried as we sat out with lunch and kept having to move back into the shade. Time for a walk into town slap on the sun cream and in we go. We get to nice town with some bargains especially woollen throws and weathered tables. Then it starts raining and continues to rain for the next 6 hours. Our seats are outside. Someone might have thrown them under the van, no. So the rest of the afternoon was book reading indoors before the obligatory vino and bed. Woke up in the morning and the place was full of puddles and if we were aware of the forecast and the condition we probably would not have stayed there. It should be fine in the dry though. The swimming book said that places to go might be cold in the water and the weather wasn’t stiflingly hot. Before we set off we said our bonjours and short conversations in French with nervous people wondering about going over the col. Then someone asked if we spoke English. A Canadian! Still no English but a conversation about the weather was had as they had been saturated hill walking the previous day and had nowhere for their socks to go. So we moved out towards lac de Serre Poncon

taking the southern route where the road appears to go closer to the lake. Numerous stopping points along here and perfect for wild camping next to the lake, just a matter of choosing your spot. Water was warm enough to swim in but weather not great so a paddle it was. The water skiers and windsurfers were in either rash vests or short wet suits so not the warmest. We took our cup of tea down to the lake and nobody anywhere near us. Onwards towards Savines le lac but up a huge hill but still close to the lake making great photos at the stopping points then as we descended we saw local products for sale on the right and loads of cars stopping. Les Demoiselle Coiffees.

A rock formation that were basically huge stalagmites going up of one sort of rock and a totally different boulder on top of it. Sort of weird. But we took the path up in crocs and flip flops and halfway up realised this was an error in judgement but continued. It was sort of like Stonehenge on a mountainside. You’ve got to go see it but why? The local products weren’t fruit and veg but touristy stuff but quite well priced. We went through Savines and it looked very modern and well worth a stop. The aire was jam packed and there was no parking and traffic was solid. We wanted our baguette for lunch and stopped at the super u garage but she didn’t do bread but let us stay for 10 minutes whilst we walked back to the boulangerie. La boucherie was next door so ribs and some Provençale belly pork (ooh very nice with some garlic in it, haven’t had any for at least a fortnight and worked the senses well) and we made our way to Embrun. The Canadians had told us about this and it came highly recommended. As we approached there were unofficial aires on the beach that looked fantastic. Trouble was crossing the dual carriageway bit. Got down to the roundabout and decided to see Embrun first as the unofficial aire was 3 or 4 k out of town and no bikes with us. We went round the bypass and back into town (unnecessarily) and free parking was located by the sports stadium without much hassle. What a lovely town again. Internet room 200 yards from the tourist office even the locals were using to watch their illegally downloaded movies. Lovely citadel very clean and cheaper than you would expect from a buzzing tourist town. Very Bournemouth. (Even had a retirement hotel) so back to the unofficial aire but on the way we saw an aire sign so we took it. It takes you to a campsite. We werent interested in stopping outside so went to the unofficial one and stopped and it looked good until you got out and walked around. People had their washing lines up, a couple of dogs tied up, nobody swimming or watersporting, it was a bit like a gypsy encampment for motorhomers. Reckon these people were having their fortnights holiday by the lake for nothing. There was just something that didnt entice us to stay so we didn’t. Head off towards Barcelonette then. Nice road. Long time since we have seen a road you can do 60 mph on. Yes mph. A pleasant change. Til it rains and you are straight back to 60 kph. Couldn’t see the mountains for the clouds and although not the torrential rain when near Nice 3 or 4 days ago the roads get so wet so quickly with all the rain coming off the mountains. Now whilst I had free internet at Embrun I took the opportunity to google "luge Briancon" and found a video. It didnt play well however you got the idea and added this to the bucket list. Only open in the afternoon it said. Later found out it is at Montgenevre about 12 k towards Italy. 2 aires in Briancon dependant upon which book you read. Behind the sports park (schaffe?) There is a huge car park which is currently stationing at least 40 vans and a car overnight with 2 font bleus. It says no more than 24 hours (yeah!) But we will abide by that. So we rush out to find the tourist information who points us in the direction of the likely closed destination and we rush off to find it. It was closed but there was a man outside trying to pull away who I stopped. He showed us into a shop and we asked what the possibility was of white water rafting in the morning. Tomorrow morning for 2. Yes please we said. Who is it that are going. Confused we said "us" the look on their faces suggested they don’t get many people going through a mid life crisis knocking off things from their bucket list. White water rafting in the morning it is then. So we are in the highest city in Europe already saturated at 1700 ish and no sign of a break in the weather so we decide to walk up to the citadel. The map from the tourist board was soaking now so we used our initiative. Just walk uphill til we find it. How hard can that be. Well we found a back route through from some lovely jardins which had some muddy steps and slippery wood stairs on them. Yes we had our 5 year old crocs with no grip and flip flops on again. Wondered round up the slippery cobbled path with even more slippery central gullies allowing the torrential rain now to flood down the streets. Why are we the only ones in shorts and a saturated anorak? Back through the town picking up a couple of prezzies for the girls and back for our ribs in the ever increasing carpark/aire of Briancon. Early night tonight in the rain with our books. The heating went on the van tonight and when waking up the morning and going round the van for my morning smoke about 0800 the sun was shining brightly but the screen appeared to have been iced over slightly overnight. So we mentally prepared ourselves for the white water rafting. Payment was refused the night before and we attended in our swimming suits as requested in plenty of time for 0900 hrs. We were offered coffee before we started. Unfortunately I cant remeber the name of the company but they are just behind the casino in the town (an actual casino not a shop) and they were great so I recommend them. We wore Wetsuits boots jacket crash helmet and lifejacket to fit.

We were to be 4 in a boat with an instructor. The other 2 were French damsels aged 17 and probably 20 and likely to be sisters going by their strawberry blond/Auburn sunset hair! So we were driven about 10 miles up the road and given instructions in French and English about what how when etc. Then we trundled down some peaceful river. Grade 2 he said for a couple of kilometres. We practiced our manoeuvres and passed with flying colours. So we hit the first of 4 rapids. Grade 3. Great fun. Needed to take note of instructions and we bounced about. We stopped shortly after starting number 2 for coffee and cake and some obvious flirting from the instructor to the keen 17 year old. Down we went a bit further and he had to take one rapid by himself. A good 10 foot sheer drop. Then we did another grade 3 before we had lessons in floating down the river which was great fun throwing yourself backwards off a rock and 4 feet til you hit the water and sort of hoping. Then through some rapids swimming then onto the grade 4. We probably got extras because of the bonny French lasses but we certainly weren’t left alone. It was dam good fun and both of us would do it again. Managed some photos with the waterproof camera. We dried out very quickly and got warm as well from the cold water and paid our 90 euros for the 2 of us and headed back to Valerie for a cup a soup. Straight up the road to Montgenevre for the luge.

Quite a reasonable climb and we Parked up but had trouble finding the luge which I thought would be well signposted but I suppose it is a kids toy compared to ski runs. 8 euros a hit including the chair lift up there. We took our jumpers as it was 2300 metres high before we got in the chair lift. Up to the top passing the camels and llamas (surreal) and there was a small queue which took 15 minutes to pass. I went first. No brake used, loads of accelerator and my camera taking video on the way down. Too fast. About 3/4 of the way down I caught up with mother and daughter in front. Slowed down so much Paula was finishing as I got off so only got the end of her go. Good advice not taken by Paula was to have 2 people in between us to enable vid or photos at the bottom. So we went back down the hill and filled up with lpg and diesel. We already had an lpg converter to let us fill up from last year for our habitation. Then into aldis. My word that place is cheap. Baguette and pate had we headed over another couple of cols on main roads with Paula being the driver. Photos of the views on the way were spectacular. Well the views were, we ll wait on the photos. So we get to the bottom Alpe d’Huez

which I have watched le tour go up sine Lemond beat Fignon in 89?  21 hairpin turns 12km and 1400 metre ascent. It was shocking. Easily the hardest climb Valerie has had. Had to put on the fan as thought she would overheat. 2nd gear with 3rd gear for maybe 30 yards occasionally 1st gear when cyclists and some corners. Stopped halfway for photo of the bends outstanding views. When we got to the town we realised there was a triathlon on. 2.2.km swim. 115km cycle which finished with alpe dhuez! Then a half marathon. To make it a bit harder they made them run up and down mountains! Bravo to all who even attempted it. And we met our first English lady coming out of her camper with her son and had a chat as we walked to town. We noticed an airfield on the mountain. I suppose you land on the upward bit and take off at the zenith. It was tiny and on the side of the mountain. Golf course and clay pigeon shooting up here as well. Also seen pony trekking today in the valleys. Everything is here. Lamb chops tonight after seeing this ski lift that goes across a valley to alpes les salles. I think what a drop on that thing. Could hardly stand on the side and look over and I m not squeamish at all. The sport for tonight is watching the clouds pass the snow capped mountains to see if one can end up clear. It is supposed to be 18c up here. My arse 2 jumpers each and the heating is on. Woke up this morning and went out for coffee to be met with beautiful sunshine. Not a cloud in the sky. Watched the sun against a mountain as it rose then took a walk where you could see the valley. Spotted the clouds below us, all cotton type covering the valley below. Photo time. Back to wake up the Mrs who wasnt happy until she saw the view. Stood there for 20 minutes just admiring it then had a good chat with a couple of Anglaiseys in their motorhome. Been here 10 days and a few days ago they had 6 inches of fresh snow (August). They told us about the benefits of an inflatable canoe as long as it was a decent one. Thought about it for a bit and we both decided it wasn’t good idea. Shirt off at 0900 as it is baking hot so far. Had a walk round alpe dhuez watching the next triathletes getting ready and noticed the road closure signs from 1415 to allow the cyclists to go up the mountain. Tea and cake watching the planes land and take off on the runway then down the mountain and towards Annecy for the last part of the holiday. More photos on the way down but boy do your brakes smell as you are using them all the time. 2nd gear and idling doesn’t stop you accelerating! Along the straight road to Grenoble took longer than anticipated and it was hot but we were still stopping at reasonable times. This was where we noticed you could have junction 24 a, b, c, d, or 24.1 and we didn’t have that on our maps! Because I wanted to go to the east shore of Annecy where there is more chance of wild camping as less touristy we were going via Albertville then I saw the sign saying Albertville 70 Chambery 20. Change of heart in the heat of the day which was quite muggy now. Off to Chambery and go to the Decathlon then we can stay at Aix les Bains. We knew where the Decathlon was following our fiat trip saga so found it straightaway. In we go looking at the canoes and there was an obvious cheap one that might last the rest of the Holiday or some really well made ones. 2 person was what we were after but the helpful English speaking girl didn’t have one. Checking her computer there was one at Aix. It all looks to be going to plan for a late paddle in Aix which is alongside lac du Bourget. So we trundle off to Aix hitting every red light known to man and look at the outskirts of all 3 main roads as Decathlon is normally an out of town shop. Can’t find it so tourist office now. Locate that in town but no real parking it is quite a big town. Far bigger than it looks on the map. Drive to the nearest freebie bit about a mile away and walk back in with a well deserved ice cream noting the temperature is only saying 29. Felt a lot hotter very muggy today. Got the information we wanted and had every intention of coming back to the town tonight and tomorrow. Very clean appeared modern. Concert going on in the park with a band one of whom played the sax rather well. Then there was a tea dance in the town square for 70 plusses. I had a feeling I could have pulled here! It was like speed dating for pensioners with proper dancing and a few of them could do it. But we had to go to Gresy sur Aix about 5 minutes away where the Decathlon was. Found it and another English speaker in there. We got the paddles and buoyancy aids cheaper and decided that the waterproof rucksack was a better option than the container so went for the larger of the 2. (You can get more wine in it !) And 320 sterling later we had a new toy. It was 1830 now and the lake was calling as we thought we ought to check it and a swim was a necessity. Find the aire and the frenchies are taking the piss. Parking their humungous trailers in a spot for motorhomes and obviously staying there for a week. Not what aires were made for. We could have done some Frenchy parking but didn’t like the place and up the road not far was the lake we stayed at before. Paula was driving now owing to navigation problems in locating the aire and we headed up the east coast of lac Bourget. As we entered Serrierres

I could see a (what is the collective noun for a collection of motorhomes) garage of motorhomes on the left so we popped round the corner and checked the other aires book and it was free and next to a plan d’eau. This will do us we parked up I went swimming Paula had a shower and from feeling right groggy to super refreshed in15 minutes. There was a little restaurant about 40 yards from the aire and it was packed solid with live music. Nice music as well. The campers from over the hedge came over the motorhomers were in there, the natives were turning up in their cars and no space left so were parking in the aire. We went over with our wine and ice tea for a game of petanque to 21 which I managed to lose from being 20-13 up. Melon and shrimps was enough for a really date dinner and it was back to single sheets time. Weather forecast says same again for the next week with it being about 25. 25 out here in the forecast means 30+. Waking up on Friday 1st August (that’s what we think it is) means it is payday. The sun was shining down and we sat out eating our clusters with Greek yoghurt and a bit of added honey. Not mine as that would be a waste of quality honey. A tiny amount of sunbathing to get warm enough to want to go and get cold in the lake which was all of 30 yards away and in we go. Cold on entry but nothing outrageous once in it was at the right temperature and swum around for 20 minutes so couldn’t have been that bad. Paula will tell you it was cold though. Unbelievably clear water. See the pebbles clearly from as far as you cared to look. Off into the little village shop for bread then reading the books in the morning and we presume the head honcho of the village comes to tell us ever so politely we are parked facing the wrong direction. I told Paula the night before but no she wouldn’t take any notice of me. I told the man we would be off in half an hour and what a beautiful village it was. So we didn’t have to move it and began travelling up a road we had travelled down. Couple of breaks at shops but no caves and we weren’t too sure which aire to head for as we were heading into a paying area. Nantua

was our chosen place for first selection and as we went through the town it reminded me of Okehampton. Wide street with main road running through it and tall buildings either side with nothing going on in terms of shops. Then we literally exit the town and it is extremely Mediterranean in beautiful Lake with wide promenade, petite funfair, and tree lined shade. Ended up going on the north side of the lake owing to some roadworks preventing me going to the aire. So we stopped at a huge car park got the canoe out (I think we ll call her candy) ignored the instructions cos I know best and pumped candy up. I did take note of the pressure she was to be whacked up to though. There we go 10 minutes or so and no need for instructions. "I am invincible" (Alan Cumming in the James bond film). Into the water and then realise that the fin or keel really ought to be on there as very little control. So we paddle towards a swimming pool within the lake and swim a few lengths pop back out and we can see the aire the other side of the lake. Pop Candy away and drive round. Few spaces so we pop in and I go off to work out how to pay and see an Anglaisey. Quick chat and he tells me the man comes round early evening or early morning so best to get him early evening so you don’t get woken up. I’m beginning to see the beauty in this place. We park facing a lake and mountain about 3 yards from the shore with a path to the beach in front of us, a sandy beach, grass picnic area, petanque all within 30 yards and we are at a cul de sac with the road being closed behind us. Mmmmm 7.50 a night seems extraordinarily good value. Into the town walk around find the tourist I formation and lidls. Work out the town has an old town so that is where the shops are! Walk back and see the Debt collector near our van so alert ourselves to him and pay up front. Set Candy up for another play (with fin attached) and in we go, no problems now and straight  across the lake and round and about, probably a couple of kms before safely returning somewhat near dry (much!) Sitting out eating dinner from the cadac could hear 2 young English girls talking and they must have attended after us but 2 vans down. Chatted away for half an hour whilst listening to the sax player 50 yards away at the boathouse as the sun dropped on the lake with it hitting the mountains the other side. Life doesn’t get much better as my cold beer hits my palate. Another walk to town taking photos across the lake of the swan with a red sky behind and lampposts lighting up along the walkway into darkness and a Peruvian style reggae singer (I shit you not) knocking out tunes to the relaxing tourists and locals. What a place. Staying tomorrow night as well sod the expense. This decision was made before I found out it was free Saturday and Sunday night ! We may stay Sunday as well ! Well we were woken in the night, one of us was, with the incessant rain and the language didn’t matter in the morning as everyone was talking about the heavy rain overnight. Except Paula. It was very mild and overcast but ever the optimist I was ready with the canoe to go out for the day. I didn’t fancy it either after a while. It was warm enough to read outside so that’s what we did for the rest of the day only being interrupted by a butterfly landing on my head and then on my hands, lunch of oven roasted camembert a bit of fishing (unsuccessfully) a walk to lidls and the market. I may have nodded off on numerous occasions during the day. The sun has come out at dinner time so sunset watching at the eastern end of the lake it is. Woke up to wetness again and lidls not being open on a Sunday morning a plan was hatched to go about 20 miles but go very slowly down the gorges de l'Ain. Stopped off at Izernore got the bread and some apricots. Couldn’t see the aire but saw a sign that said it was 800 metres away then Thoirette just to dump some water and take a look at the aire. Ideal if you didn’t have leccy but 6 euros for no view in a village seemed steep but presumably the leccy was free with 6 points for the 5 places available. Didnt look as if it was used much. Down the gorge to Dortan and no real stopping points of great significance and the gorge didnt look that outstanding after others we had seen. Dortan provided us with an open intermarche for bread and some cheap steak which was devoured later and really quite nice out of the skillet. So we popped back onto the main road bypassing Moirans en Montagne and saw a huge car park with a couple of motorhomes in it. Lunch it is we thought as there must be a view here. There was a view of lac Vouglans and stunning. There were some information signs up about the different types of eagle visible around the area and a trail. You needed a harness helmet and couple of safety ropes and you could hire them for 14 euros a shot. The trail took about 90 minutes and was basically climbing and you just had to remain attached. There was a 60 metre monkey bridge. You could view the monkey bridge from a path behind the restaurant. That wasn’t the problem for Paula it was how you got to it. The decision not to go was made through lunch. Great photos to astound the kids of mum’s achievements were lost. Continuing up the road we took in every stop with one about Coyron where wild camping would have been easily achieved. Walked down to the boat slipway and found 2 lovely bits of wet driftwood. No swimming here because of the jetskis and motorboats. Round the corner was the bridge and we could see what we think is called an auberge, a roped off swimming area with beach at lac Vouglans.

It was probably la tour du meix, if it wasn’t then it was in exactly that spot on the map. Lovely swim with shaded tree area and view of the bridge with the imitation Mississippi steam boat taking out day visitors up the lake. Onwards to Orgelet but saw loads of cars parked up the road with a barrier. As we passed it looked like a street carnival. Stopped and walked in and it was a car boot sale. They just blocked the roads into the village of st Christophe and called it a car boot. Paula was ecstatic, not! Orgelet aire was located with minimum fuss but it was parking on grass and someone was getting drenched with the thunder going on nearby so front wheels were left on the hardstand. Walked around town and up to the advertised viewpoint which was up a huge incline to be extremely disappointed. First disappointment in terms of advertised views. The sun came out for the evening and was there again in the morning. Brekkie was followed by Clairveaux les lacs and parking Valerie in what we thought was the right place near to the lake and a bit of sunbathing next to diving boards. A swim was followed by me going up the diving boards but asking if I was allowed to dive as everyone jumped. The look on their faces when I dived! Took a look at higher board and remembered how old I was ! Walk round the town after lunch the headed off to lac Chamblain but we had to pay to park. Feeling like residents of France we turned round like everyone else. And saw that the Cascades du Herrison were up the road so as we didn’t quite finish it we thought we would start at the bottom. 900 metres away from the car park was a sign saying park here or pay 4 euros. No decision. So we walked to the start past la maison du cascades and made it up the very gentle hill to the first waterfall. Bugger, we had seen all the waterfalls so turned straight back round. Into Champagnole and the aire was 6 euros outside a campsite but you only paid in high season. Walk into town along the very long high street and there was every supermarket known to a Frenchman in there. Including E leclerc who we hadn’t managed to shop in yet. We passed the beach volleyball that was set up for the summer in front of the church but there was no atmosphere in the town at all. Can’t find banana chips anywhere to go with my cashew nuts. Make it back missing out on the rain and just the 4 vans overnight. Woken up in the morning by one of the vans being taken on the back of the lorry to the camping car hospital. Ooops they scraped the bottom back and dislodged the bumper whilst dragging it on to the recovery truck. I think Valerie winced as it went on the low loader. So we had now made the decision to head towards the lakes of Troyes rather than Luxembourg. The theory was less motorway travel on the last 2 days and more trundling. I knew Dole to be nice so checked the map for relevant stopping points. We had now become aware that a belvedere was a major viewing point. I remembered something about Baume

and cross referenced our huge hardback book of "The most beautiful villages in France" and there it was followed by Chateau Chalon about 4kms further up the road. Also went in to get more literature on the area from the campsite and found a grotte (caves) in Baume. Last year we went to lacave in the Dordogne and were utterly impressed with the grotte but unfortunately lost the camera in the Dordogne whilst canoeing. So we trundled off and past the birds of prey sanctuary where they had shows on at 3 and 4. Then spotted a Belvedere at Granges 2.5 km out of the way. Popped up there and confirmed our reasoning that belvederes are excellent view points. Looked down on the  village of Baume with birds flying past our noses. Looked like sparrows to me. Went back to go into the fromagerie but it was 1205 hrs, closed, really need to check our watches more. Thought about taking the path down to Baume but went with the motor. From above we could see the parking and the village is a huge one way street about a mile long which then turns round and goes one way in the opposite direction towards the grotte. Down the steep hill out of the village and doubling back we located lovely place by the river we designed for motorhome parking just beyond the campsite by the river. A walk round the town and it was very pretty but no Entrevaux. Lovely old buildings and very scenic. Very old nice gardens. Big old church you could enter with birds (swallows) flying about inside. Back for riverside lunch and off up the narrow road 2.5km to the grotte. Small parking area and we had to wait for a car to move. Oh well I can squeeze Valerie into that space next to the red Ferrari

Testarossa. So I did. There was a beautiful waterfall at the entrance which you sort of climbed up and round then bought the tickets up the top to wait for the guide for the 90 minute trip with jumper handy as it was 13c inside. Water just rushed out of the mountainside as the source of whatever river we were on. We were provided with an interpretation leaflet to read on the way round. In we went in a group of about 50. Very mixed group. There are a couple of areas where limbo dancing lessons would have helped especially the old dear who had to be pushed through by her hubby as she could bend no more. I wore my crocs because I forgot to change into the more grippy Sandals. Bats were flying about us. Not loads but enough. No flash photography I saw on the entrance, now I had to work out how to get infrared up whilst in the dark without my reading glasses. Somehow I managed it. Shedloads of photos to be checked on the tablet later but ran out of battery but took the second camera with a sneaky couple of flash photos. Out we went and the car park was mayhem. Owing to not wanting to hit the red old banger beside me I went out the wrong way followed by everyone else meeting motorhomes on the way in so I blocked the entrance. Never mind. It was much much more busy in the afternoon and you could see the faces of the people walking up there or back who realised they made a poor decision about walking from the village. The original plan was then to go onto Chateau Chalon which we passed through without realising. Can only say that it looked pleasant enough but didn’t strike you as you went through it as so many pretty villages. Loads of caves for buying wine but not many direct sales from the makers. One village Nevy had at least 6 caves. Up the wide open road to Dole.

Miss wong wei was given another opportunity and we used gps coordinates from the aires book. Doh why don’t we learn? We had worked out that the font bleu was at the aquapark but the parking was by the river so after a tour of the back streets we returned following the signs for stade camping and found a multitude of camping cars. Parked up opposite the river next to the main road, Minor mistake we should have parked with our back against the skatepark at night. Road was busy in the morning and the skatepark was busy during the day. Met a couple of anglaiseys and saw some hot air balloons taking off late in the day. Walked around town with the hint that The Bar was not the place to eat but that the first part of town looked like Venice. We had been given good info from the anglaiseys stunning walk along the small canal and very pleasant town with Louis Pasteur’s birth house. Fantastic little park with river running through it and then along to the lock with a cycle path, dam no bikes but that tandem is getting closer. Into the town for our one meal out for the holiday and it was decision time. We took ages mainly because we didnt really understand the menu. In the end a completely non English speaking restaurant on the first corner and we went for the 2 plats du jour. 24 euros and 18 euros. This meant I got my escargots. Salad starter of different hams for Paula. Both had steak which tastes so much nicer out here, it’s just far more tender, I had a blue cheese sauce she had some green garlic sauce. We should have swapped as I love garlic and hate blue cheese. Then came the puddings and I was wondering why I had paid 6 euros more I got 2 puddings of ice cream and some form of creme brulee with an Arabic type coffee (I put some of the cream from the pudding into the coffee to Paula’s disgust) and she had an ice cream with chocolate sauce after one hell of a Conversation about what she could have. We really didn’t know what we had ordered her. A bottle of chardonnay was had for14 euros and then a walk round town in the balmy evening in shortsleeves at 2300 hrs was a lovely end to the day. The church was lit up at night but for some reason the top wasn’t so no photos. On the way round we did notice that several other motorhomes were parked to the rear of the stadium. A lot quieter here and next to the river but there were midgies about. The morning was very sunny and warm and we had no inclination to do anything so we read our books in the sun for as long as we could. It started to get cloudy and looked for a place to head to but there was nowhere in between Dole and the lakes near Troyes. It was a bit of a trek but we would try to take all day over it. Firstly to e leclerc to buy all their Dijon mayo owing to orders from home. Then via Dijon and up to Troyes. Dijon has a park and ride but the one we passed didn’t allow motorhomes owing to the height barrier and the north western section of their exterior circulatory route is now complete if you have an old map or satnav. The road to Troyes was a nice open one really straight in places with a couple of viewpoints but not fantastic in comparison to what we have seen. A stop for petrol at Auchan just outside Chatillon sur seine and a purchase of a baby outfit for niece who is due in December. We then saw along the road that we were in the champagne region with lots of signs for maisons Du Champagne. Most seemed off the road so when we eventually saw one our side we thought we would pop in to see it. Huge stone wall right the way round with regal black 10 foot high electric gates led us into a road that followed the meandering Seine about 800 yards away was the Chateau. Immaculate gardens and there we were with our tatty shorts and t shirts looking at this impressive Chateau. We walked in and were made extremely welcome and I said we were just stopping because we could. We were shown all the grapes and how they made it all the different things they had to do within the year and popped back in to the shop to see the prices. They were what we expected however their glasses were shockingly cheap 2 euros for fine champagne flutes. It was the DEVAUX champagne house 1 km south of Bar sur Seine on the d671 and is about 30 km from Troyes. N48° 05.741° E4°22.797°. You might be wondering why I leave complete details for this champagne house. Well I needed a piece of their literature to direct the recovery truck to us. Valerie wouldn’t start.

We were stuck inside the Chateau grounds next to the Seine all by ourselves. We explained to Jonathan the helpful owner/member of staff and he was prepared to leave the Chateau open for us with all the champagne available! We said no and he left us his number and left the gates open at 1800 awaiting our truck. We had recovery and it would appear they don’t have too many break down abroad and explaining where we were was comical. We are in the most idyllic chateau next to the seine at a champagne house! 2020hrs came along and the non english speaking mechanic made a quick diagnosis after a couple of checks. Votre starter est merde. Up on the back of the truck to his garage which was a Peugeot dealership in the middle of nowhere in Montieramey about 3km from where we were heading. Dormez ici, huit heures.

Sleep here we will sort out the van for you in the morning. So sleeping in a scrapyard of motorvehicles tonight but who cares really. Woken once in the night by another poorly motorvehicle attending otherwise perfect. Although we didnt buy anything at the champagne house Paula did come out with the classic line on the way back to the van from the house before we knew Valerie was ill, "You would really need something special to celebrate to buy champagne" to which I answered "Perhaps the birth of our first grandchild" which was due in month! This obviously wasn’t special enough to break our habits of a lifetime. Anyway if you are going through the champagne region and want to look at a champagne house I would urge you to look at this one for 2 reasons, bloody amazing scenery and bloody helpful, say hello and thank you to Jonathan for us. So we basically slept in a scrapyard somewhere and were only woken once by the sound of another arrival en route to the great car scrapyard above in the middle of the night. Got up for the 0800 start which was basically the apprentice being sent over to check then take off The starter motor. The secretary will be here later she speaks some English! She got in about 0900 and said the motor won’t be ready til 5 or 6 as the part had to be ordered. It didnt upset us as we were about 3km from lac d'Orient at Mesnil. We were offered a car but to be fair it was a nice day and a walk wouldn’t kill us. So off we trotted with 500 ml of water each. We gambled and took a wrong turn but we saw kestrels eyeing us up but as they weren’t hovering above us so we were less concerned. That took us 2 km out of the way then got into Mesnil but through the town. Picked up a cake in the shop and down to the beach heading straight for the shade. We spotted the humungous free aire but no water and no toilet dump. The red light indicating our toilet was full had to already have been ignored this morning so Mesnil would not be our first stopping point if Valerie recovered from her illness. We lay on the sandy beach and went in swimming in 23c water which felt very warm. Very clear with 5 inch fish swimming between your legs. Areas set apart for bird watching and fishing as well and all watersports available at a price. Toilets weren’t great but there were shower and changing facilities. Time to go back and less hot but still hot. We had noted this white building on the way in and knew it was near our village so we walked round the lake towards it on a footpath. The place was isolated on the way there. Skinny dipping time it was for the last dip before walking back. We jumped a fence into some area we shouldn’t have been then jumped another walking along the top of a culvert and jumped the rather high fence there which had a bit of a fall into the empty culvert if we got it wrong. Then back along the busy main road. There was a left turn to the village so we took it to get off the road then noticed a bird of prey on a telegraph pole. We could tell it was a biggun so photos taken but he kept flying away. Then we were close enough to see how big he was. Bloody huge. When flying my honest estimate is 5 foot wingspan. Got back to the garage Valerie wasn’t ready but showed the photos to the secretary who asked where we saw it and eagle was the best guess. Reading our books and the apprentice turns up with the new starter motor and 330 euros later (200 For the part) and a test run and we were on our way. All the staff were lovely. First stop was Vendeuvre to empty the toilet and we decided to stay the night. Had a chat with an anglaisey whose wife had the most beautiful tan and I had to tell her and just hope I didn’t sound too pervy! Walk round and nothing to write about so I wont apart from a Chateau they are doing up. The aire was free and shedloads of parking. It says 5 I reckon 35 spaces. So the plan in the morning was to go to one of the other beaches on the lake but it was overcast. The option of Luxembourg was still on and the wife was still keen so that was it we went. Bit of a journey but several stops and the kms went down quickly on the free Motorway. We stopped to fill up for our journey home with even more Dijon mayo, juice and vino. Paid by card for the first time for non petrol things. Then we made Dudelange just inside the country of Luxembourg where we stayed the first night. Once we got there met a lovely English couple Robbie and Kate who had been vanning it up for 2 years we took the train and that was an experience. No attendant, which way how much, return ticket? So there is this machine and it doesn’t take notes. It speaks English and you can buy a 2 euro ticket or a 4 euro ticket. I buy 2 x 4 euro tickets. Get on the train after asking about, but the train only goes to Bettenberg. So we ask the conductor if we have to buy another ticket when we change to be told no this ticket entitles you to travel as far in Luxembourg as you want as many times as you want until 0400 the next day. I already thought the last train back was 2330 because I didn’t think trains would run later. Apparently they do. Whats more the connecting train at Bettenberg is a double decker and the timings are perfect for the swap. 22 mins and 4 euros and you’re in the city centre with busses to take you anywhere. Trains leave from the far platform from the aire at 17 and 47 minutes past. Catching them back you need to be at Luxembourg station at 20 and 50 minutes past the hour.

So we jump on a bus then spot a bendy bus then a  double bendy and they have pushbikes you can hire for the day. We shop a little and notice that shoes are dirt cheap and so are Clothes. Incredibly clean and upmarket. We look for the tourist information and there is a sign so walk towards it but we get lost and eventually cross the valley where we see another sign then eventually find it. The map we get shows the town divided into 3. The station part where we thought the majority of high end shops were, then haute Luxembourg where the high end shops actually are and another area beginning with k which didn’t appear to have too many tourist attractions. Haute Luxembourg was lovely. Umbrellas above your head on the streets. 4 or 5 squares, all the government buildings and palaces statues views the lot. It was quite warm and in need of a refreshment. We were both getting irritable. Ice cream, food, beer or wine? In the end the thing that ticked all the boxes was a thick shake from Maccy ds. Golden arches spotted and it had a seating area in one of the town squares. Probably the poshest Mcdonalds in the world. I also managed to locate Luxembourg Gentlemans club Playboy and a place where they sold ganja legally. Entrance to both was blocked, the wife does wear the trousers. We are now in 2 minds as to what to do. Eat and stay the night or back for dinner. Food was not prohibitively expensive but budget does come into it. Decision made to eat out and we headed for the square with a bandstand as we saw a grand piano being set up. There was a warm up of street dancers and they were quite impressive. Enough for me to bung them a euro! Then into the burger shop 2 Doors from Mcdonalds purely because it had seats at the front of the bandstand. We managed to blag the students discount which was 2 large burgers chips and a big coke for 7.50 euros or 6 quid. My university id was not required. But they did thick shakes as well rather than the brain freezing frappes had earlier at maccy ds. So we sat there and were entertained by a very good 4 piece jazz band and singer. Lovely evening. Time to return as we could see lightening about us. We were approached by one of the numerous beggars but he got short shrift then noticed another one in the doorway with his worldly belongings lying in his sleeping bag fag in mouth obviously hadn’t washed in weeks and his long unkempt beard. He was on his bloody laptop ripping off the weefee from one of the shops. If only I had seen him slightly before the beggar who approached me then I would have given him hell ! Everyone was taking photos of him and I thought of putting up a sign. "Cant afford weefee" in front of him. A walk back to the train station and a wait for the train as we missed it by a minute and then onto the train (upstairs in 2 nd class) meeting with the connecting train at the right time and back for the 150 yard walk to the aire. Got back and Robbie was up to tell us we left the window wide open and then gave us a pair of knitted booties from Kate for our forthcoming grandchild. We leant him the swimming book to borrow. The lightening was all around us and we sat in the front of the van to watch it And eventually the rain came thundering down (pun intended) all night long it went. Morning and it was overcast. 2 minutes later sunbathing. We had the laziest of lazy mornings as we sat chatting away to Robbie and Kate then had lunch before a walk into Dudalange.

To be fair I wasn’t expecting a lot as the aire is situated next to a derelict area which reminds you of the Lancashire cotton mills when they were abandoned. But you get into town on foot about 500 yards away and its lovely, all new spick and spam with nice shops and cafes. The most beautiful park with rotating sun loungers that Paula really fancies and a couple of shops that remind me of Poundland with similar prices one of which was called Zeeman. Haven’t seen a similar type shop in the whole of France. We have decided that the country of Luxembourg is the begging and shoe capital of Europe after seeing loads of shoe shops and even a 10 year old beggar with nothing apparently destitute about him apart from looking Albanian. Found a shop that sold Luxembourg beer so when in Rome ..... and they also had some 80 per cent alcohol which I bought for the bees propolis to make a tincture. Measured up a cake to bring back in the fridge then sat down for the rest of the afternoon with Robbie and another couple who arrived and chatted away til evening drinking Luxembourg beer and daring to sniff the 80 per cent stuff. No cigarettes whilst it was open! Gave away some home made beeswax candles and earlyish to bed for reading before we give instructions to a German family heading to Cornwall in the morning. Upon waking up it was miserable outside, we were told it was to be a warmer day than yesterday so the plan was to locate a swimming lake in Belgium which was done next to an aire but the place wasn’t on my French map. I think the european atlas is now a must and big ring binder one may well be got this morning at the same time as we buy one of the huge cakes from the supermarket. The ones you salivate over in French patisseries for 20 plus euros are only 11 euros here. We have the bog standard Dometic 3 way fridge and according to my hand measurements against the box which was measured yesterday it will fit in without being squashed, time will tell whether the family eat cake which is squashed or not. So we said our au revoirs to the neighbours and headed off with a duel plan of a lake in Belgium if it was a warm day or a major town if it wasn’t. We filled right up on 1.18 diesel and got onto the free motorway where it chucked it down almost immediately. Charleroi, Lille or Brussels were our choices and just on the basis it was a capital city Brussels won. Miss wong wei was given gps coordinates and she took us straight into a height restricted car park. Traffic signals from me allowed Paula to reverse out and we set further different coordinates but she just took us back to where we had come from. So we looked at the parking on the side of the road and double checked our francais and it appeared Sunday Was a freebie. Checked nobody else was paying after reading the signs and we parked outside the Heysel stadium next to the atom for nothing instead of paying 5 euros. Everybody was walking into this place best described as like the NEC so we joined the queue. We asked what we were queueing for and it was an exposition of the Titanic for 16 euros each. 50 euros left so it seemed like a good idea. So we queued then moved a yard forward then waited and moved another yard. After about 20 minutes we could see the front of the queue and I reckon 45 minutes to get there. It was chucking it down outside so good plan. 10 minutes later I could see that once you had queued to pay you queued to get in! Their queue was moving slower than ours. Now being almost a Francophile after 4 weeks we upped and left the queue. We weren’t the only ones. We spotted a tram and thought we would go to the town centre. Couldn’t buy a ticket without coinage and we didn’t have enough. Popped round to the underground about 50 yards away and same story so we just looked at the machines and then 2 Dutch people with their daughter came up and gave us their pass. It was a 10 usage pass that they paid 14 euros for with 4 travels left. So that was a freebie trip into town and back for 2 of us. First mistake was taking the underground, we didn’t know where to head to so when a load of people got off and it looked like the town centre so did we. We ended up in the equivalent of a north London housing estate obviously looking like lost tourists with no map. So we walked off in direction unknown towards location unknown. We spotted some tramlines just past the 2 people smoking pot in the park and thought we would follow them til we got to a tram stop. Once there we worked out a route back to the Heysel stadium and walked off following the tramlines and taking that route til we located the 51 back. Typically we missed one but it was only 20 minutes til the next and at least we could see Brussels now. Unfortunately everything we saw just made the place look like a dump. It may well have been the weather and the fact we were in the worst part of town without a map but Brussels did not endear itself to us. As we walked back the van from the stadium we saw the truck stop which was presumably for motorhomes as well. About 300 yards round the corner from the coordinates. Into the van and all of a sudden on the main roads it threw it down even harder. 30 mph max on duel carriageway with huge queues going in opposite direction. Then the wind blew. Blowing the van all over the carriageway and then finally the sun came out and the wind dropped but the roads got awful again. We did main roads and yellow roads and white ones but deary me they really are terrible. Very apparent when you get back into France and tarmac instead of concrete blocks, you can’t do more than 40 mph for fear of a spinal injury. Hondschoote was our last destination about 30 direct minutes for Dunkirk for our 1000 ferry. Nice little town with good aire out of the way and quiet, couple of boulangeries and couple of big churches. Up in time for a final fill up of diesel and a couple of more cakes and horsemeat to bring home and then the journey over La Manche in tipping down rain. Only one screaming child to contend with on this journey though. Makes you realise how much we enjoyed the peace and quiet for 4 weeks. Roll on next year. (Think yourselves lucky I didnt upload the other 1000 photos !)